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Dogs

How Often Should You Brush a Double-Coated Dog?

Most double-coated dogs do well with a thorough brushing two or three times a week, and a short session every day during the heavy seasonal sheds many of them go through in spring and fall, often called blowing coat. Breeds such as Huskies, German Shepherds, Golden Retrievers, Corgis, Samoyeds, and Australian Shepherds have a soft, dense undercoat beneath a coarser outer coat. The undercoat is what comes loose in clumps, and if it is not removed it can pack down and start to tangle, especially behind the ears, under the collar, in the armpits, and on the back of the thighs. The right frequency is whatever keeps loose undercoat from building up, and that differs from dog to dog.

A simple weekly routine

Short and regular beats long and rare. Ten to fifteen minutes two or three times a week is easier on both of you than an hour-long struggle every few weeks. A workable pattern looks like this:

Most weeks: two or three sessions that work through the whole coat, plus a quick feel of the friction spots after walks.
During a heavy shed: a short session every day, focusing on wherever the undercoat is lifting.
Before any bath: brush first. Loose undercoat that gets wet tends to tighten into clumps.

Which tools, in which order

Work from the undercoat outward. The Undercoat Rake is a rake-style tool for dense coats. Draw it through in the direction the hair grows, in short strokes, letting the teeth reach into the undercoat without pressing into the skin. It is not a mat splitter, so do not drag it through a knot.

Next, a Fine-Wire Grooming Brush lifts the loosened hair out of the outer layers. Use light pressure and short strokes; fine wire is easy to overdo, especially on thinner-coated areas like the belly and inner legs.

Finish with the Everyday Pet Grooming Brush for a smooth pass over the topcoat, or skip it if the coat already lies flat.

Line brushing helps with very thick coats. Part the hair with one hand so you can see a line of skin, brush the hair below the part outward, then move the part up about an inch and repeat. It is slower, but it reaches the undercoat instead of only smoothing the top.

What to avoid

Shaving a double coat to cut down on shedding. Many groomers and vets advise against it for most double-coated breeds, because the coat can grow back patchy and the outer coat helps protect against sun and weather. Ask your vet or groomer before any short clip.
Pressing hard with a rake or a wire brush. If the skin turns pink or the dog flinches, ease off.
Brushing straight over a knot. Hold the hair at the base and work the edges gently, or leave it for a groomer.
Marathon sessions to catch up after weeks off. Split the coat into areas and spread the work over several days.

How to tell it is working, and when to stop

After a session, the coat should feel lighter and you should be able to slide your fingers down to the skin without snagging. Fewer tumbleweeds of hair on the floor between sessions is a good sign, although a dog in full shed will still drop plenty of hair. That part is normal.

End each session while the dog is still relaxed, before it starts lip licking, yawning, turning away, or tucking its tail. Breaks and small treats help a lot.

See a professional groomer for mats that sit close to the skin, felted patches, or a coat you simply cannot get through. See your vet if you notice bald patches, redness, scabs, flaky or greasy skin, a bad smell, lumps, fleas or ticks, constant scratching, or shedding that is much heavier than usual or happens outside the normal seasons. Coat changes can have medical causes that brushing will not fix. A vet or a qualified trainer can also help if your dog growls, snaps, or panics when brushed.

Keeping the rake and brushes together in a Pet Grooming Tool Storage Pouch near the door makes the two-or-three-times-a-week habit more likely to stick.